The Diesel Particle Filter Removal service is a cost-effective way to get rid of your DPF headaches.
What is a DPF: The Diesel Particle Filter is a device incorporated into the exhaust system that is designed to reduce or get rid of the soot from the exhaust gas of a diesel engine.
As with any filter, eventually they get full and block up. The filter needs to be efficient to allow exhaust gasses to flow freely to prevent a loss in engine performance. To cure this the car has a regeneration program.
The cleaning process can be Active or Passive. The vehicles Engine Ecu controls the Active regeneration program or cleaning process.
Active: The filter is monitored by the engine Ecu and when it is 45-50% full, small changes to the injection duration and timing are made. This raises the exhaust temperature which in turn burns off the soot particles.
Passive: When the vehicle is either used on the freeway or is driven at high revs, the exhaust reaches high temperatures which automatically burns off the soot particles.
When Problems Arise
If by no fault of your own, the filter does not regenerate efficiently then the soot builds up more and more. This could be because of stop start driving or short journeys. When the filter becomes 75% blocked and Engine management warning light or DTC light comes on and no amount of driving at speed will clear the filter out. It needs to be taken to a dealer (or does it - read on)
This technology seems to be problematic as many drives are experiencing DPF failure even though they do mostly freeway driving. This can be due to a very high 5th or 6th gear which doesn't lift the revs hard enough.
Auto Code can reprogram your Ecu to safely disable your DPF system. All fault code data will be erased and your Ecu will be ready to plug in. You can then remove the filter and put a straight through pipe in. It is recommended to leave the sensors in place.
>The DPF system is turned off using the latest main dealer diagnostic software and can easily be re-enabled if need be in the future.
Makes that can be Programmed
Or ring direct 08 6107 2522
If you own a diesel car, you probably have a diesel particulate filter, however, you may not know exactly what this is or how to maintain it.
Diesel particulate filters have been fitted to diesel-fuel cars for almost two decades now - but if not maintained, or if tampered with there could be serious consequences for your car.
Idling is the act of leaving a vehicle's engine running while it is stationary.
While this is often the result of traffic, there are some instances, such as waiting for children outside of schools and in traffic jams/long traffic pauses, when idling is not necessary and should be avoided.
Idling increases the amount of exhaust fumes in the air.
These fumes contain a number of harmful gasses including carbon dioxide, which is bad for the environment and contributes towards climate change, as well as a range of other harmful gasses including nitrogen dioxide, carbon monoxide and hydrocarbons which are linked to asthma and other lung diseases.
Try to consider how long you are going to be stationary in traffic. The RAC recommends that motorists turn off their engines if they think they are not going to move for around two minutes. Many modern vehicles have ‘stop-start’ systems fitted that automatically switch off the engine when the vehicle is stationary and restart it as soon as the accelerator is pressed. Manufacturers allow this feature to be manually switched off, however we urge motorists not to do this. There is no risk to your vehicle in allowing this feature to be left on. For vehicles without ‘stop-start’ it’s fine to turn off your engine, but you should try to avoid doing this repeatedly in a short space of time. In addition, older vehicles (around eight years old) and vehicles with older batteries (around five years old) may struggle if they are started too often in a short space of time.
With stop-start systems, don’t worry about the battery not getting charged while the engine is off – the stop-start system will automatically restart the engine to ensure the battery is kept fully charged, even in stationary traffic. Switching off your engine in traffic should not adversely affect your fuel economy. However, fuel usage from starting does vary from model to model. Generally, older vehicles – 10 years or older – will use more fuel when starting and may require some accelerator use which will inevitably use some fuel. If a vehicle will start without any use of the accelerator, then try not to use it. If motorists can start making small changes today it will help to improve air quality for everyone and potentially reduce the likelihood of charges having to be imposed on certain vehicles entering urban areas.
If you don’t use your car for long periods of time, the battery will degrade and go flat.
Jump-starting the car then puts additional strain on this essential component, and may damage the engine management system and other delicate electronics: a double-whammy of increased wear.
Consider using a trickle charger to keep the battery topped-up if your car is garaged.
If not, try to drive your car at least once a week – particularly in winter. Batteries don’t like cold weather too much!
Learning how to jump start a car is such an invaluable piece of knowledge it should almost be part of the national curriculum.
It’s a horrible feeling - jump in the car on a winter’s morning, turn the key, and the starter motor clicks but fails to trigger the engine into life.
This may mean a dead battery but, if you battery is merely flat and needs a bit of a jolt back to life there are different ways of jump starting a car. Below we outline the different techniques use our quick links to find the right section for you:
Before you start, it’s important to consider the safety aspects of jump starting a car. Remove any loose clothing or jewellery – you don’t want a metal object to create a spark when attaching the leads to the battery’s terminal. If the battery looks damaged in any way, avoid jump starting it and seek professional advice. The battery pack itself needs to be charged before it can be used to jump start a car. Most chargers need an overnight charge to ensure they have enough power to start a car. Jump starting with a portable battery pack The first step of jump starting a car is finding the battery. This is usually situated in the engine bay under the bonnet, but in some cars, it is located in the boot. It’ll probably be hidden under a plastic cover – unclip this and you should see a large battery with two terminals. Connect the positive (red) lead from the battery pack to the positive (+) terminal of the battery. Connect the negative (black) lead to the negative (–) terminal. Although many battery packs now have built-in protection should you connect the leads the wrong way round, it’s better to do it correctly in the first place. Be careful where you position the battery pack while you’re using it. If it’s placed on the engine it might fall off when the vehicle starts. Once the battery pack is connected, attempt to start the car as you normally would. It might hesitate at first, but don’t keep trying if it doesn’t start within about 10 seconds. In this event, seek professional help by calling the RAC or consider replacing your battery. They can be bought in the RAC Shop from around £60 and can be delivered the next day, or fitted the same day by one of our patrols. If the car does start, keep the engine running to charge up the battery. Consider taking it for a drive for 20 minutes or so to avoid the car failing to start next time you need it.
Give your engine the very best, with an Auto Code custom tune. Your Auto Code custom tune will give you the benefit of increased Power, Torque, improved derivability and the added bonus of enhanced fuel economy. Gain Performance and save fuel! Not possible you say. It is here. You can expect to save 5-20% in fuel depending on your tune type and the way you drive.